Déjà Vu: Cascading Curves

One turn, or in this case, curve of genius deserves another.

Playing on a curve at Alexander McQueen FW09

When I saw this look from Alexander McQueen’s Fall 09 collection last year, I couldn’t help but think that it reminded me of the work of another man who likes to play with curves – Frank Gehry.

Hotel Marques de Riscal, Spain by Gehry

Lee McQueen was often inspired by the arts – in multiple forms. His inspiration could very well have been derived from Gehry, who often manipulates steel, wood and even layers of cardboard into sensuality as if they were fabric.

Gehry's Wiggle Chair

McQueen, who shaped and drew and cut fabric as his artist’s material of choice, cannot be replaced in this life.

His works may not have the physical solidity of a building or structure, but they will certainly be housed in museums for thousands of years to come – maybe even those museums designed by Mr. Gehry.

McQueen image courtesy of NYMag. Gehry buidling photo source. Chair photo source.

Vogue India Marches At Last

The March issue of Vogue India has finally arrived – in Indian Standard Time.

It wasn’t around when I did my Vogue comparison of the global March issues, but it compares nicely to Vogue Portugal, don’t you think?

As with much in the Motherland, the issue screams colour – even if it’s that of an amusement park in Mumbai.

Cover girl, actress and ex-Miss Universe, Lara Dutta wears a dhoti-esque Burberry Prorsum skirt in a classic Indian shade – pale firozi.

Firozi chiffon? Check. Glittery, cleavage-y top? Check. The next starlet? Check.

Just cue the rain and you have a blockbuster hit.

Lara Dutta on the cover of Vogue India, March 2010.

X Marks the Spot

In my ongoing quest to uncover fashion, I came across the X campaign from Calvin Klein for men’s underwear.

Well now, CK has an X-rated spot to go with the campaign.

You might want to set your coffee down.

The Queen Reigns On

Mirren, Mirren, on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all?

Why, The Queen, of course.

She ruled the Red Carpet at the Oscars last night.

What’s so great about Helen Mirren?

Now that's a Dame! Dame Helen in Badgley Mischka at the Oscars, 2010.

She is always graceful, always age-appropriate (and that works both ways – there were too many 20-somethings looking 45+ last night – why, I shall not know).

She chose grey – a big colour for the past couple of seasons and into Fall 2010, and she opted for a silver grey (without going full-on lamé as Sandra Bullock did), with a smattering of diamonds (slight echoes of our friend Daphne, perhaps?).

Helen Mirren - Reigning on everyone's parade.

I love that the Badgley Mischka dress has organza sleeves – just enough coverage to hide any flaws (not that Dame Mirren has any).

Her hair, her makeup were flawless – as was her poise and confidence.

Best dressed and best role model, in my opinion.

Photos courtesy of AP and WWD.

Marion Cotillard’s Eyes of Mars

Marion Cotillard, actress, chanteuse and current Dior muse sings Franz Ferdinand in the latest campaign for the Lady Dior brand.

She has a great voice, does justice to Franz and happens to look fantastic while doing it.

It quenched today’s fashion thirst.

Army: Entrenched for Fall

Stock up on army gear this Spring. 

Not only is it all over this season’s looks, but it looks like the military muse is firmly entrenched in Fall Winter 10/11 as well.

The Dries show during Paris Fashion Week gave us one of the best examples of it, with this killer trench.

Je want.

Beauty, on duty at Dries Van Noten, FW10.

 Photo: WWD

Capris Come Back

Capris, over-the-knee boots, pointy shoes, asymmetry, jodhpurs - these are trends to some but have always been members of my fashion cabinet.

I have loved and worn capris for as long as I have loved fashion (those who know me, know that I remain loyal to my true loves – they just become updated versions in my closet).

Capris have been given a bad wrap in recent years. They have been relegated to the mall and the proportions have been way off. I have never liked the wide capri, or the casual, shorter version. To me, capris should be skinny or slightly flared,  and always, always, always well cut and proportioned.

Thanks to Giles Deacon, the tailored capri is back. Paired with a silk cap-sleeve blouse and a slingback, they are picture perfect.

Capris, captured perfectly at Giles FW10.

Vogue Marches On

It’s that time of year again…time to get your wrists in training for the semi-annual trek from the mag stand.

The March issues are upon us.

The magazine industry has been under a lot of fire lately and the relevancy of tomes such as Vogue in particular, are in question.

Being part of a global fashion village (more than ever before – with the prevalance of blogs and social media),  I thought it would be interesting to compare international Vogue covers this month, to see how each country attempted to captivate us in print, for Spring.

Anja Rubik photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue Spain, March 2010.

Notice that both Vogue Spain and Vogue Brazil used different photographers but the look is quite similar – earth tones, dirty blonde hair, page composition – heads covering the same letters in the deck.

Barbara Berger photographed by Jacques Dequeker, Vogue Brazil, March 2010.

Vogue Portugal used similar tones as well,  but punched up the monochrome with contrasting text and went for a striking, action-packed shot of Kasia Struss. Orange and yellow are big colours for Spring and those are the perfect shades of both.

Kasia Struss photographed by David Sims, Vogue Portual, March 2010.

US Vogue went for all-American girl, Tina Fey for their March cover girl. She’s a great choice, but choice of photo is bland and boring for such an interesting personality.

Tina Fey by Mario Testino for Vogue US, March 2010.

Using one of the inside editorial shots – and dare I say it – in black and white (!) would have been revolutionary on this side of the fashion ocean.

This Tina would turn mag stand heads. Photo by Mario Testino for Vogue Uh-merica, March 2010.

Imagine this image of Tina instead, with a red deck and white and blue teaser text. (Anna, call me?)

Freja Beha Erichsen by Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia, March 2010.

It’s no surprise that both the Italian and Paris Vogue editions opted for full-on glamour and minimal text to capture our attention. I have to say, though, that I am getting slightly tired of Meisel covers for the Italian mag.

Rose Cordero rocks the Paris issue, however, and the colours are spectacular. Bonjour burgundy lips!

Also note that both the Brazilian and French issues highlight the army green trend for Spring.

Rose Cordero by Mert & Marcus for Paris Vogue, March 2010.

I couldn’t get over the similarity of these next two shots – taken by different photographers.

Anja Rubik photographed by Camilla Akran for Vogue Nippon, March 2010.

Spain cover girl, Anja Rubik appears again for Vogue Nippon – just not as classy or natural. I found both this and the Vogue Russia covers tasteless and tabloid-like.

Abbey Lee Kershaw by Josh Olins for Vogue Russia, March 2010.

Abbey Lee Kershaw also shows up on Vogue Oz – with a friend in tow.

Abbey Lee Kershaw by Max Doyle for Vogue Australia, March 2010.

Such a great use of colour and fonts on that one.

Vogue China brought two friends, and so on, and so on…for a cover entitled Fashion Forward.

Du Juan, Lily Domaldson, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, Constance Jablonski, Karlie Kloss, Liu Wen by Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue China, March 2010.

[If you are having a deja vu from this cover, I'll tell you why soon.]

British Vogue is always fashion forward, in my humble opinion and this month is no exception with girl of the moment, Alexa Chung.

As always, the look is rock star, edgy and something about their covers always says we can’t be fussed to make it perfect – but it usually is pretty close to perfect.

It’s a busy cover, but I’d still pick it up because the clothes (minus the shoes!) are well, perfect.

Alexa Chung photographed by Alasdair McLellan for UK Vogue, March 2010.

My fave Vogue cover this month? It has to be Vogue Germany by a mile. It’s retro and modern at the same time.

Frida Gustavsson photographed by Greg Kadel for Vogue Germany, March 2010.

Black and white with a (literal) splash of colour is a wonderful combination and it captures that feeling. You know the one – where your eyes meet it on the mag stand, you pick it up (a fresh one from mid-pile of course), it’s the one for you and you have to take it home to bed this instant!

That doesn’t happen much with mags any more these days. A girl can’t be too careful…with her mag dollars.

[To those of you who noticed that the object of my constant affection, Vogue India was missing from this post, the March issue isn't out yet. Indian Standard Time and all that. Look for it in this space as soon as the magazine-walla delivers it.]

Spring Brings Colourful Things

As I look out at snow-covered rooftops (we haven’t had many in Canada this year, but we did manage to get a snow blitz the last few days), I am reminded by the colourful fashion images on my laptop that Spring is indeed around the corner.

In India today, they are welcoming Spring with the kaleidoscope of colours that is Holi – a festival devoted to rang and the welcoming of the season and all its glorious hues.

The recent Spring 2010 collections have virtually every colour within that kaleidoscope to choose from.

An illustration welcoming the season, from Satya Paul.

Poised in pink at Wendell Rodricks SS10.

Scarlet - not for the weak of sartorial heart.

Scarlet Lanvin SS10 - the full view, with shoes to match. Natch.

Extra strong mustard at Bottega, in the classic weave clutch.

Opting for drama at McQueen Pre-Spring 2010.

Stripes and structure at McQueen PS10.

Completely unstructured at Stella SS10. This dress needs an island breeze, n'est pas?

Miyake captures the Holi splattered shirt, perfectly.

Lanvin also does the one-colour look, complete with clutch. Drama at every angle.

A man all too familiar with drama - the demure kind. Haider Ackerman does haldi for Holi!

Galliano's 40s siren in fire engine red, for Dior SS10.

Slanted seductresses at Gaultier.

You don't need a ballgown for evening with this long jacket and flowy pants from Max Mara.

The classic Indian "combination" of fuchsia and hot orange at Stella.

Ballooned beauty at Gaurii and Nainika SS10.

McQueen's lemon yellow gown from PS10. Not a sour note around.

The 50s silhoutette at Rochas gets the floral treatment.

Love the minimalism of this dress with the perfect shoe at Ungaro - lets the colour speak for itself.

Chartreuse charms at Rochas SS10.

Liquid plum satin and the perfect shoulder at Talbot Runhof SS10. Je want. But please, not those shoes. I need the pointiest silver slings with mine.

The navy blue of the west, meets the navy blue of India - pink - at Ungaro.

A walking work of art, at Viktor & Rolf SS10.

Take mini, add colour, add frou and pouf! You have instant glamour at Valli.

Paisley perfection at Preeti Kapoor. I don't just want this. I neeeeed it.

Whether you celebrate it or not…

May your path be strewn with the petals of Spring and may everything you touch turn to exuberant, vivid, spectacular colour!

H O L I   H A I  ! ! !

Illustration courtesy of Satya Paul. India Fashion Week images courtesy of Yahoo India except for Preeti K image, which is courtesy of MSN India. All other images courtesy of Style.com.

Déjà Vu: Sole Similarity

Watching the Gucci live stream from Milan earlier, I did a double take when I saw these sandals from the label’s FW10 collection.

Sandals with socks @ Gucci FW10/11.

Well, they are the sole sisters (no DNA test required) of these Other Italians…by Miuccia Prada for FW07.

Two panel sandal with semi-socks @ Prada FW07.

I didn’t like the Prada ones at all until I saw Giovanna Battaglia in them, as captured by Sart. The lighter ones really do look like the Guccis, don’t they?

A sartorialist shot by The Sartorialist, September 2007.

Shoe shots from Style.com. Giovanna photo by Scott Schuman.

Daphne G’s Museum-worthy Wardrobe

As you may know from hanging out in this space from time to time, Daphne Guiness is one of my fashion heroes.

No one can put together clothes like this woman. She is planets ahead of us all when it comes to style.

And now, well, in  2011, we can all ogle the gladrags she dons so well (and maybe, if I am lucky, even the tangled web she weaves!) at an exhibition of (what is surely a tiny fraction of) her wardrobe at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.

The September 2011 ex will feature 80 to 100 pieces by McQueen, CDG, Alaia, Balenciaga and beyond.

Of course, the ex will be curated by the brilliant fashion historian and director/chief curator of The Museum at FIT,  Valerie Steele, plus a book will accompany the show.

I’ve already booked it off in my calendar.

Our dear, dramatic Daphne.

 Photo courtesy of Vanity Fair.

Day One at Milan Fashion Week Rides Into Sunset After All

I was about to declare day one at Milan Fashion Week a yawner…

Dolce and Gabbana did cable knit onesies, fur shorts and furrier mukluks. Practical, no? DSquared did apres ski much better in recent years. So did Valentino (sigh, that chalet in the documentary!) and Chanel.

Prada usually doesn’t interest me. A nice dress silhouette or two and the rest is frumpy to my eyes. Yes, yes, I know…Miuccia revolutionized fashion… (sorry, those seats are taken in my world).

Don’t care for Cavalli.

Fendi had some interesting layering but was ho-hum for the most part.

And then, ciao amore! Krizia saved the day.

Leather jodhpurs, olive leather (or is it satin?) bondage and a fantastic balloon sleeve.

Krizia rides high for FW10

It’s a little Montana meets Amelia Earhart meets cyborg. Love.

Image courtesy of WWD.